Ingredient library / 29 ingredients

Know what’s in your routine.

Prescription, over-the-counter, and cosmetic ingredients people are actually using, each with its U.S. status, the strengths sold, evidence graded per use, how to use it, side effects, cautions, and what drives the price.

Start with your concern

Explore ingredients by concern.

First-line means the ingredients with the strongest evidence for that concern; also useful means supporting actives or prescription step-ups. Each name opens the full file with status, strengths, and sources.

Acne (inflamed and comedonal)

A retinoid plus benzoyl peroxide is the guideline core. Everything else is an add-on or a prescription step-up.

First line
Also useful
Skip
  • Topical clindamycin on its own (resistance)
  • Scrubs and daily acid stacking
  • Toothpaste, lemon, and other DIY spot treatments

See a clinician if Nodules, cysts, scarring, acne that has not improved after 12 weeks of a retinoid plus benzoyl peroxide, or acne with sudden hormonal symptoms.

Dark spots and melasma

Sunscreen is the treatment; everything else is maintenance without it. Layer one or two pigment actives, not five.

First line
Also useful
Skip
  • Imported 'whitening' creams (mercury and undisclosed hydroquinone)
  • IPL for melasma (can worsen it)
  • Continuous hydroquinone without breaks

See a clinician if A spot that is new, changing, irregular, or bleeding needs an exam before any brightener; melasma that fails 3–4 months of topical care may warrant oral or procedural options.

Fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage

Two ingredients have randomized evidence for visible aging: daily sunscreen and a retinoid. The rest is supporting cast.

First line
Also useful
Skip
  • Collagen creams (collagen does not penetrate)
  • 'Topical Botox' peptides
  • Growth-factor and exosome serums at a premium

See a clinician if Static wrinkles and laxity that bother you after 6–12 months of consistent retinoid and sunscreen use; the procedures desk compares the next steps.

Redness and rosacea

Bumps respond to prescriptions; background redness and vessels respond to lasers. Gentle everything else.

First line
Also useful
Skip
  • Physical scrubs and high-strength acids
  • Alcohol-heavy toners and fragrance
  • Retinoids started at full strength

See a clinician if Eye symptoms (gritty, red, swollen lids), thickening skin on the nose, or redness that does not respond to a prescription; visible vessels need a laser evaluation rather than more cream.

Dryness, sensitivity, and a damaged barrier

Stop the damage, then moisturize with intent: humectant on damp skin, lipids, and an occlusive at night.

First line
Also useful
Skip
  • Daily exfoliating acids while the barrier is compromised
  • Fragrance and essential oils
  • Hot water and foaming sulfate cleansers

See a clinician if Persistent eczema, cracking that bleeds, infection signs, or dryness that does not improve after 2–4 weeks of a simplified routine; prescription options such as ruxolitinib cream exist.

Oily skin and enlarged pores

Pores do not open or close, but they look smaller when they are clear and the skin around them is smooth.

First line
Also useful
Skip
  • Pore strips and aggressive extraction at home
  • Over-cleansing, which increases oil rebound
  • Alcohol-based mattifiers used all day

See a clinician if Sudden oiliness with new hair growth or irregular periods, or congestion that keeps forming cysts.

Thinning hair and pattern hair loss

Diagnosis first: pattern loss has proven treatments, and other types need different care.

First line
Also useful
Skip
  • Rosemary oil or caffeine as a replacement for treatment
  • Scalp 'detox' facials sold as hair-growth therapy
  • Unapproved oral 'hair peptides'

See a clinician if Any new hair loss deserves a diagnosis; patchy loss, scarring, itching, or shedding after illness or medication change have different treatments. Oral finasteride or minoxidil and PRP are prescriber decisions.

Rough body skin and keratosis pilaris

Chemical exfoliation plus moisture beats scrubbing. Consistency matters more than strength.

First line
Also useful
Skip
  • Harsh loofahs and scrubs that inflame follicles
  • Very hot showers
  • Fragranced body lotions on inflamed skin

See a clinician if Bumps that are red, painful, pus-filled, or spreading; keratosis pilaris that does not improve in 2–3 months may respond to prescription keratolytics or laser.

Sun protection, every day

The one product with randomized evidence for both skin cancer and visible aging. Texture you will wear beats a higher number you will not.

First line
Also useful
Skip
  • Sunscreen contouring
  • Tanning nasal sprays
  • SPF in makeup as the only protection

See a clinician if A yearly skin check if you have a history of sunburns, many moles, or skin cancer in the family; any spot that changes, bleeds, or does not heal.

Reading key

Our grades travel with the claim, not the ingredient.

Strong for this claim

An official final action, official recall, systematic synthesis, or mature body of directly relevant evidence.

Useful human evidence

Controlled human data or a strong review with meaningful limits on size, scope, or generalizability.

Early signal

Small, exploratory, preclinical, or otherwise preliminary evidence that needs replication.

Context only

Policy process, market data, historical record, or another source that should not be read as a treatment grade.

Vitamin A derivatives

5 files

Antimicrobial acne actives

2 files

Hydroxy acids

2 files

Hormonal acne actives

1 file

Anti-inflammatory acne actives

1 file

Dicarboxylic acid

1 file

Tyrosinase inhibitors

1 file

Pigment modulators

1 file

Antioxidants

1 file

Vitamin B3

1 file

Rosacea prescriptions

2 files

Barrier lipids

1 file

Humectants

1 file

Occlusives

1 file

Humectants and keratolytics

1 file

Osmolytes

1 file

UV filters

2 files

Cosmeceutical actives

2 files

Topical JAK inhibitors

1 file

Hair growth actives

1 file
The Daily Considered

Less noise. More perspective.

A short briefing on skincare news, research, and procedures. What matters, why it matters, and the sources behind it.