Start with your concernExplore ingredients by concern.
First-line means the ingredients with the strongest evidence for that concern; also useful means supporting actives or prescription step-ups. Each name opens the full file with status, strengths, and sources.
Acne (inflamed and comedonal)
A retinoid plus benzoyl peroxide is the guideline core. Everything else is an add-on or a prescription step-up.
Skip- Topical clindamycin on its own (resistance)
- Scrubs and daily acid stacking
- Toothpaste, lemon, and other DIY spot treatments
See a clinician if Nodules, cysts, scarring, acne that has not improved after 12 weeks of a retinoid plus benzoyl peroxide, or acne with sudden hormonal symptoms.
Guide: The retinoid ladder: strength, evidence, and tolerance · Procedure: Superficial (light) chemical peel · Procedure: Photodynamic therapy (PDT) · Procedure: Comedone extractions
Dark spots and melasma
Sunscreen is the treatment; everything else is maintenance without it. Layer one or two pigment actives, not five.
Skip- Imported 'whitening' creams (mercury and undisclosed hydroquinone)
- IPL for melasma (can worsen it)
- Continuous hydroquinone without breaks
See a clinician if A spot that is new, changing, irregular, or bleeding needs an exam before any brightener; melasma that fails 3–4 months of topical care may warrant oral or procedural options.
Dispatch: FDA testing found high mercury levels in a skin-lightening product · Procedure: Superficial (light) chemical peel · Procedure: Vascular and pigment-targeting lasers
Fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage
Two ingredients have randomized evidence for visible aging: daily sunscreen and a retinoid. The rest is supporting cast.
Skip- Collagen creams (collagen does not penetrate)
- 'Topical Botox' peptides
- Growth-factor and exosome serums at a premium
See a clinician if Static wrinkles and laxity that bother you after 6–12 months of consistent retinoid and sunscreen use; the procedures desk compares the next steps.
Procedure: Neuromodulators (botulinum toxin) · Procedure: Non-ablative fractional laser · Procedure: Medium-depth chemical peel · Trend: Collagen supplements · Trend: Bakuchiol as 'natural retinol'
Redness and rosacea
Bumps respond to prescriptions; background redness and vessels respond to lasers. Gentle everything else.
Skip- Physical scrubs and high-strength acids
- Alcohol-heavy toners and fragrance
- Retinoids started at full strength
See a clinician if Eye symptoms (gritty, red, swollen lids), thickening skin on the nose, or redness that does not respond to a prescription; visible vessels need a laser evaluation rather than more cream.
Procedure: Vascular and pigment-targeting lasers · Procedure: Intense pulsed light (IPL)
Dryness, sensitivity, and a damaged barrier
Stop the damage, then moisturize with intent: humectant on damp skin, lipids, and an occlusive at night.
Skip- Daily exfoliating acids while the barrier is compromised
- Fragrance and essential oils
- Hot water and foaming sulfate cleansers
See a clinician if Persistent eczema, cracking that bleeds, infection signs, or dryness that does not improve after 2–4 weeks of a simplified routine; prescription options such as ruxolitinib cream exist.
Guide: The skin barrier, explained without the mythology · Topical: Ruxolitinib cream · Trend: Slugging · Trend: Skin cycling
Oily skin and enlarged pores
Pores do not open or close, but they look smaller when they are clear and the skin around them is smooth.
Skip- Pore strips and aggressive extraction at home
- Over-cleansing, which increases oil rebound
- Alcohol-based mattifiers used all day
See a clinician if Sudden oiliness with new hair growth or irregular periods, or congestion that keeps forming cysts.
Procedure: Superficial (light) chemical peel · Procedure: HydraFacial · Procedure: Comedone extractions
Thinning hair and pattern hair loss
Diagnosis first: pattern loss has proven treatments, and other types need different care.
Skip- Rosemary oil or caffeine as a replacement for treatment
- Scalp 'detox' facials sold as hair-growth therapy
- Unapproved oral 'hair peptides'
See a clinician if Any new hair loss deserves a diagnosis; patchy loss, scarring, itching, or shedding after illness or medication change have different treatments. Oral finasteride or minoxidil and PRP are prescriber decisions.
Procedure: PRP for hair loss · Procedure: Hair transplant (FUE and FUT) · Procedure: HydraFacial Keravive (scalp)
Rough body skin and keratosis pilaris
Chemical exfoliation plus moisture beats scrubbing. Consistency matters more than strength.
Skip- Harsh loofahs and scrubs that inflame follicles
- Very hot showers
- Fragranced body lotions on inflamed skin
See a clinician if Bumps that are red, painful, pus-filled, or spreading; keratosis pilaris that does not improve in 2–3 months may respond to prescription keratolytics or laser.
Procedure: Laser hair removal
Sun protection, every day
The one product with randomized evidence for both skin cancer and visible aging. Texture you will wear beats a higher number you will not.
Skip- Sunscreen contouring
- Tanning nasal sprays
- SPF in makeup as the only protection
See a clinician if A yearly skin check if you have a history of sunburns, many moles, or skin cancer in the family; any spot that changes, bleeds, or does not heal.
Trend: Sunscreen contouring · Trend: Imported Korean and European sunscreens · Trend: Nasal tanning sprays and 'tanning peptides'